ONE OF LIFE'S UNSCHEDULED EXPERIENCES

I started my travel program from our home in Essex, England at 6.45am on the 11 September 2001. At 11.30am our United Airlines flight UA 929 took off from London Heathrow Airport bound for Chicago.

Some four hours later I detected a change in engine noise and a drop in speed and altitude. The Captain came on the tannoy to say that our aircraft was in sound condition but because of a problem in the USA the FAA had closed all flight entries into the States. His plan was to dump fuel to get the aircraft down to landing weight and land at Ganda in Newfoundland.

Some five hours after leaving London we touched down in Ganda to find many transatlantic planes already parked up. Over the coming hours more planes landed until a total of 39 were on the tarmac.

The Captain linked us to the BBC World service where we heard the tragic reason for our diversion, the deadly terrorist attacks in New York, Washington & Pittsburgh. We were advised that the plane was to disembark all passengers from each aircraft and take them through Canadian Customs, onto School busses and to accommodation centres. 20 hours after landing we disembarked with our hand luggage and followed the plan.

Approximately 6,500 passengers descended on Ganda and its surrounding area, which had a residential population of 100,000. The organisation through Customs was quick, thorough and cheerful. Prior to getting on our busses we were offered sandwiches and a drink which was gratefully accepted as our 25 hours aboard the plane had given us lunch, a tea snack at 10pm and a Snicker bar the following morning.

Our planeload of passengers set off in four of those famous yellow school buses. After travelling for half and hour through picturesque country we arrived at the sprawling town of Gambo which has a population of 2,500 people and is sighted along the waters edge. A little Church, the odd store, garage and bar interrupted the rows of white wooden houses and gardens. People waved us welcome as we passed which together with the blue sky and 23 degrees temperature made us relaxed despite the tiredness and unknown future.

The busses stopped outside the Salvation Army Citadel where we disembarked to a homely welcome. In a large clean hall adjoining the church, tables and chairs were laid out in lines, which comfortably seated all 197 of us. We were briefed with speculative information, which left us all guessing on how long our stay would last. At that point we thought we would be off the next day, which would still allow me to make the start line on time. Just how wrong can you be!

The Salvation Army team were simply fantastic as were the local residents. They organised walks along the Salmon River where you could see the jumps, car rides to beauty spots, to the shop, post office, bank and pub. The local food store next to the church had most of our basic needs although one man who could not find aftershave was astonished when the lady behind the till went home to get her husbands aftershave for him at no cost. That act exemplifies the simple kindnesses we received. We slept on church pews, stretchers and the floor. Blankets and pillows were provided. The stretchers were 18” wide and very hard. Many of them were also very noisy when a slight movement was made. I slept in a classroom downstairs which held four. It was great compared to the main church where one person forecasted that the Guinness Book of Records for snoring would be broken. The only setback was that we were under the Kitchen, which proved quite noisy when volunteer locals came in at 5am to start breakfast preparations. Gambo ‘s population is very small. Over 30% are out of work and there are many retired people. It’s the old story if you are young you have to move out to find a future. Despite their situation the local residents have a very strong community spirit. The Churches are the centre of their lives and it really shows when it comes to caring for us.

The breakfast team came in at dawn, around 5am and the last dinner shift around 10pm. We were cooked for and almost waited on. There was always a table of cookies, tea, coffee and soft drinks. The table always had bowls of fruit for you to pick at. As one passenger said we must be the fattest hostages on record!

The first two days saw fine weather and our time passed quickly, walking, and exchanging discoveries together. A Scotsman and Irishman found the local pub four miles at the other end of town. They said it was a real outback bar, everything was heavy and bolted down, nothing got broken that way.

The third day it rained. Some went into Ganda and proudly came back with their Walmart shirts and underwear. This was not strictly necessary, as we had been offered free T-shirts, socks and underwear after arriving, however, they obviously enjoyed their outing and purchases.

There were many interesting people amongst the passengers from all walks of life and occupations. It was a privilege to learn about their backgrounds and interests, their families, our common problem and speculation on the outcome were raised. Leaders came forth from amongst the passengers and helped plan our travel needs. The Captain and crew came daily to update us on the situation, which at that time usually changed by the hour. The patience of everyone was almost remarkable. We all had our needs but accepted the problems and recognised that we were the lucky travellers unlike the passengers on the fateful terrorist flights.

The evening entertainment after dinner was highlighted by one passenger who wrote country songs which he played for us accompanied by a guitar, he was very professional. The church ladies also sang along with great gusto if not too much co-ordination, it was fun, which was what made it a privilege to be part of the unusual but very human adventure. We were working for each other as apposed to our own ends as usual.

I was fortunate to have purchased a book titled ‘It’s not about the bike’ a true story of how Lance Armstrong fought cancer and went on to win the Tour de France. His experience certainly helped to appreciate how lucky we are to be healthy. I recommend everyone to read it as its connection with our situation in Gambo had a common theme – humanity.

We eventually left Gambo at 2.30 am and Ganda airport bound for Chicago, seven hours later after security checks.
Five days after departing for Chicago we finally arrived, at lunchtime Sunday, just in time to book in for the evening flight back to London.

When speaking with a friend I was told that the Regatta had been cancelled!!
Keith Musto

P.S. If you go to Newfoundland don’t trouble to take your mobile, it won’t work!